Back in the Saddle – First surf in two weeks – The re-stoke.

Posted on: Thursday, February 16th, 2012
Comments: 0

I finally got back in the saddle yesterday ( Feb. 16th ) after two weeks without surfing due to a malicious little bowel virus that took me down and stripped me of 3.5 kilos of muscle! It was my longest stretch without a wave since we moved to Japan a year and a bit a go. It felt great, there were surprisingly good waves at Kaeda and the group in the water had some great energy going on, the stoked was high! The photo below is one of me from a few weeks back, not a great wave and I know I’m not on it where I should be, but I don’t care, it gets me excited. This spot at low tide, which was when I was surfing that day is about 3ft deep and nothing but rocks and sea urchins. I lost my point break virginity at this spot last summer and love how much the spot scares me. This is a mini wave for this break, but it just reminds me how much I love surfing, skiing, skateboarding, ice hockey ( have to include the word ice for the non Canadians, wouldn’t want you thinking I play field hockey:) ), soccer, tennis etc etc etc. Doesn’t matter how good you are, just how much fun you have. Happy Shredding everyone. Smile!

Matty Dubs surfing a little one in UchiUmi - Late January 2012

Matty Dubs surfing a little one in UchiUmi - Late January 2012

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Buds to Blossoms – a Good Morning Miyazaki webisode

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